Photographing Laser Beams
Ever tried to photograph a scene that has a laser in it? Tried to use smoke or some other hazing agent to interfere with the beam just to get poor results? Here’s the photographic tip that’s made for perfect laser beams.
First what we need is some kind of frosted Mylar. You will not need a lot; it only needs to be as wide as a laser beam. I like to keep two sizes, one & half inch wide and another three inches wide. Both pieces are about four to five inches long.
Before I begin my project I setup my strobe lights with spot grids to light only my subjects or people within the scene. I meter out the flash units so they are no brighter then f8 to f11 using ISO 100-200 speed film or digital. Second I will take an incident light meter reading of the actual laser beam. (Incident light reading is with the translucent dome over the light meter sensor) This can give you readings anywhere from one half second to three or four seconds.
By now you might have guest that we are going to trace the laser beam with the frosted Mylar. The trick is to build up the exposure of the laser to match our f-stop reading while illuminating the laser beam using the Mylar. Before exposing your film or shooting this scene I always test tracing the beam with the Mylar to get good results.
OK, now for the shoot. Camera is on a tripod and we will use a bulb exposure. Room lights will be off for this in a near dark room. Open the lens and manually trip the flash units. If people are in the scene they need to remain in relative position. With the camera lens still open trace the laser with the Mylar then close your lens.